2000 honda civic cylinder head torque specs

How to Replace the Cylinder Head on All 1996 - 2000 Honda Civic LX / Del Sol 1.6L 4 Cyl EnginesEducation

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How to Replace the Cylinder Head on All 1996 - 2000 Honda Civic LX / Del Sol 1.6L 4 Cyl Engines

Updated September 23, 2010

8 minute read

2000 honda civic cylinder head torque specs

Before You Begin...

Warning: To avoid damaging the cylinder head, allow the coolant temperature to drop below 100°F (38°C) before removing the head bolts.

Careful thought and a clean work environment should be a priority when removing a cylinder head. Have plenty of cardboard boxes and a good marker handy to label and organize the parts as they are removed.

Be sure to have an ample supply of sealable clear plastic bags that can be labeled for the removed fasteners. Make sure to investigate whether or not certain fasteners can be reused or must be replaced.

Have sealable containers available for the used coolant and engine oil which must be drained during the procedure. Have a pencil and note pad handy to make drawings and make notes of cable routing, wire and bracket locations.

Follow the installation procedures carefully to know whether certain fasteners should be lubricated or not when being installed.

Read the procedures before starting to get a thorough understanding of the tools and equipment needed. Many of the components of the cylinder head are precision machined pieces that need to be thoroughly cleaned and inspected before reinstalling.

When machined components are removed NEVER:

  • Allow two machined pieces to rest or contact one another
  • Lay the component directly on the ground or garage floor
  • Mix up the location from which they were removed

Use wood or cardboard to protect a machined component, especially items such as a cylinder head.

The radio may contain a coded theft protection circuit. Always obtain the code number before disconnecting the battery.

1996 - 1997 Civic & Civic del Sol

1.6L (D16Y5, D16Y7 & D16Y8) Engines

Removal

  1. Be sure the cylinder head is cool to the touch before beginning the removal procedure. The coolant temperature must be below 100° F (38° C).
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Label and disconnect the ignition wires.
  5. Remove the air intake duct and the air cleaner assembly.
  6. Relieve the fuel pressure.
  7. Clean up any fuel that may have spilled on the engine or intake manifold.
  8. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the coolant inlet.
  9. Disconnect the coolant bypass hoses and the heater hose from the intake manifold.
  10. Loosen the power steering pump mounting bolts to release the belt tension. Remove the power steering pump belt.
  11. Remove the power steering pump from its mounting bracket and lift the power steering reservoir from its mount. Move the pump and reservoir out of the work area and secure them. Don't disconnect the hydraulic lines.
  12. Place a block of wood on the pad of a floor jack. Place the floor jack under the engine for support.
  13. If equipped with A/C, unbolt the left-front engine mount bracket.
  14. Loosen the A/C compressor idler pulley bolt. Then, loosen the adjusting bolt to release the belt tension. Slip the A/C compressor belt around the engine mount to remove it.
  15. Loosen the alternator mounts, then remove the alternator belt.
  16. Be sure the engine is supported with the padded floor jack. Loosen the nuts from left side engine mount. Remove the engine mount bracket.
  17. Remove the valve cover and the upper timing belt cover.
  18. Remove the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing belt cover. Separate the dipstick tube from its catches on the timing cover. Remove the timing belt.
  19. With the timing belt removed, inspect the water pump and replace it if necessary.
  20. Remove the distributor from the cylinder head as an assembly.
  21. Unbolt and remove the camshaft sprocket.
  22. Disconnect the fuel lines from the intake manifold fuel rail. Immediately plug the lines to prevent fuel leakage and contamination.
  23. Disconnect the throttle cable from the linkage by first loosening its lock-nut, then slipping it out of its holder.
  24. Label and disconnect the following engine harness connectors from the cylinder head and the intake manifold: A. Fuel injector wiring harness connectors B. VTEC solenoid valve and pressure switch connectors (D16Y5, D16Y8 engines only) C. Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector D. Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector E. EGR valve lift sensor connectors (D16Y5 engine only) F. Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, switch, and gauge sender connectors G. Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor connector H. Primary and secondary (D16Y5, D16Y7 engines only) Heated Oxygen sensor (HO 2 S) connectors
  25. Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses and PCV hose from the intake manifold and throttle body.
  26. Disconnect the charcoal canister (EVAP) and breather hoses from the intake manifold.
  27. Remove the intake manifold together with the throttle body and plenum.
  28. Remove the exhaust manifold.
  29. Remove the power steering pump bracket.
  30. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in a three-step crisscross pattern in the reverse order of the tightening sequence. Start with the outermost bolts and work toward the middle of the cylinder head. Loosen the bolts in the reverse order of installation.
  31. Remove the cylinder head. If the head sticks to the engine block, tap it with a plastic or wooden mallet.
  32. Inspect the cylinder head for warpage and cracking. Repair, machine, or replace as necessary. The warpage limit is 0.002 in. (0.05mm). Standard cylinder head height is 3.659-3.663 in. (92.95-93.05mm).
  33. Remove the old cylinder head gasket and thoroughly clean the mating surfaces.
  34. Cover the engine block with a sheet of plastic to keep out dust and foreign objects.

Installation

Use new O-ring, seals, and gaskets when installing the cylinder head and its components.

  1. Be sure the cylinder head and the engine block surfaces are clean, level, and straight.
  2. Be sure the cylinder head dowel pins and control orifice are aligned. Clean the oil control orifice and reinstall it with a new O-ring.
  3. Install a new head gasket onto the engine block.
  4. If the camshaft was removed, reinstall it with the key-way facing up so that the engine will remain at TDC/compression for the No. 1 cylinder. Lubricate and install a new camshaft seal.
  5. Use new cylinder head bolts and washers. Used or previously-tightened bolts may be stretched, and therefore they have reduced clamping and sealing power under compression. Apply clean engine oil to the threads of each head bolt.
  6. Fit the cylinder head into place. Hand-tighten all the cylinder head bolts.
  7. Tighten the cylinder head bolts to their final torque specification in four steps. Use a crisscross sequence starting with the bolts at the middle of the head and working toward the outer bolts as follows: Step 1: Tighten each bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Step 2: Tighten each bolt to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Step 3: Tighten each bolt to 49 ft. lbs. (67 Nm). Step 4: Retighten only the two center bolts to 49 ft. lbs. (67 Nm).
  8. Apply oil to the camshaft sprocket bolt. Install the sprocket with the UP mark and the key-way pointing straight up. Tighten the sprocket bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  9. Install the intake manifold with a new gasket, and tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern in two or three steps to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) starting with the inner nuts.
  10. Install the bolts that secure the intake manifold to its bracket and tighten them to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  11. Install the power steering pump bracket and tighten its bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
  12. Install the exhaust manifold with a new gasket. Apply anti-seize paste to the studs, and tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm) in a crisscross sequence.
  13. Connect the exhaust manifold to the front exhaust pipe. Tighten the self-locking nuts to 25 ft. lbs. (33 Nm). On vehicles with the D16Y8 engine, tighten the nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
  14. Verify that the engine is at TDC/compression for the No. 1 cylinder.
  15. Install the timing belt. After the timing belt has been properly tensioned, tighten the adjusting bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
  16. Install the lower timing belt cover. Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten its bolt to 134 ft. lbs. (181 Nm). Fit the dipstick tube back into its catches.
  17. Adjust the valves. If equipped with a VTEC engine, also check the rocker arms for free and smooth motion.
  18. If equipped with a VTEC engine, remove the VTEC solenoid valve and its filter. Install a new filter, then reinstall the VTEC solenoid valve and tighten its bolt to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  19. Install the distributor. The lugs on the distributor drive fit into the groove on the end of the camshaft. Don't fully tighten the distributor mounting bolts yet.
  20. Be sure all the spark plug tube sealing gaskets are fully seated.
  21. Install a new gasket onto to the valve cover. Apply liquid gasket to the corner recesses of the gasket. Don't let the sealant cure before installing the valve cover onto the cylinder head.
  22. Install the valve cover. Gently wiggle the valve cover to be sure it is fully seated. Tighten the valve cover bolts in a crisscross pattern to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
  23. Install new spark plugs.
  24. Reconnect the ignition wires.
  25. Reconnect the upper radiator hose, heater hoses, and intake manifold coolant bypass hoses.
  26. Reconnect the intake manifold vacuum lines, PCV, EVAP canister, and breather hoses.
  27. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel rail. Use new sealing washers on the banjo fitting. Carefully tighten the banjo fitting to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) for the D16Y5 engine, or to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) for all other engines. Tighten the service bolt to 9-11 ft. lbs. (12-15 Nm).
  28. Reconnect the throttle cable. Adjust its tension so the cable has a deflection of 10-12mm (0.39-0.47 in.).
  29. Installation of the remaining components is the reverse of removal.

1.6L (B16A2) Engine

Removal

  1. Before beginning the cylinder head removal procedure, be sure the engine temperature is below 100° F (38° C). To prevent warping, the cylinder head should be removed when the engine is cold.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Label and disconnect the ignition wires.
  4. Drain the engine coolant. Remove the radiator cap to speed draining.
  5. Remove the strut brace.
  6. Remove the intake air duct and disconnect the breather hose.
  7. Relieve the fuel pressure as follows: A. Loosen the fuel filler cap. B. Hold the fuel filter banjo bolt with a back-up wrench. Hold the fuel filter service bolt with a box end wrench. C. Place a shop rag over the fuel filter to absorb fuel spray. D. Slowly loosen the fuel filter service bolt one complete turn.
  8. Clean up any fuel that may have spilled on the engine or intake manifold.
  9. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the coolant inlet.
  10. Disconnect the coolant bypass hoses and the heater hose from the intake manifold.
  11. Loosen the power steering pump mounting bolts to release the belt tension. Remove the power steering pump belt.
  12. Remove the power steering pump from its mounting bracket and lift the power steering reservoir from its mount. Move the pump and reservoir out of the work area and secure them. Don't disconnect the hydraulic lines.
  13. Place a block of wood on the pad of a floor jack. Place the floor jack under the engine for support.
  14. If equipped with A/C: unbolt the left-front engine mount bracket.
  15. Loosen the A/C compressor idler pulley bolt. Then, loosen the adjusting bolt to release the belt tension. Slip the A/C compressor belt around the engine mount to remove it.
  16. Loosen the alternator mounts, then remove the alternator belt.
  17. Be sure the engine is supported with the padded floor jack. Loosen the left side engine mount nuts. Remove the engine mount bracket.
  18. Remove the valve cover and the upper timing belt cover.
  19. Remove the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing belt cover. Remove the timing belt.
  20. With the timing belt removed, inspect the water pump and replace it if necessary.
  21. Remove the distributor from the cylinder head as an assembly.
  22. Disconnect the fuel lines from the intake manifold fuel rail. Immediately plug the lines to prevent fuel leakage and contamination.
  23. Disconnect the throttle cable from the linkage by first loosening its lock-nut, then slipping it out of its holder.
  24. Label and disconnect the following engine harness connectors from the cylinder head and the intake manifold: A. Fuel injector wiring harness connectors B. VTEC solenoid valve and pressure switch connectors C. Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector D. Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector E. Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, switch, and gauge sender connectors F. Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor connector G. Primary Heated Oxygen sensor (HO 2 S) connector
  25. Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses and PCV hose from the intake manifold and throttle body.
  26. Disconnect the charcoal canister (EVAP) and breather hoses from the intake manifold.
  27. Loosen the intake manifold nuts in a crisscross sequence. Then, remove the intake manifold together with the throttle body and plenum.
  28. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. Then, loosen the exhaust manifold nuts in a crisscross sequence. Remove the exhaust manifold. Be careful not to damage the oxygen sensors when removing the manifold. Cover the front exhaust pipe flange with a shop towel to keep dirt out.
  29. Remove the power steering pump bracket.
  30. Remove the camshaft pulleys and back cover.
  31. Loosen the camshaft holder plate bolts in a crisscross sequence working toward the middle of the cylinder head.
  32. Loosen the valve adjusting screws.
  33. Lift the camshaft holder plates and holders from the cylinder head. The holder bolts will keep the components together. Note the positions of each camshaft holder for reassembly.
  34. Lift the camshafts from the cylinder head. Mark the exhaust and intake camshafts so that they will not be confused.
  35. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in a three-step crisscross pattern. Start with the outermost bolts and work toward the middle of the cylinder head.
  36. Remove the cylinder head. If the head sticks to the engine block, tap it with a plastic-faced or wooden mallet.
  37. Inspect the cylinder head for warpage and cracking. Repair, machine, or replace as necessary. The warpage limit is 0.002 in. (0.05mm). Standard cylinder head height is 5.589-5.593 in. (141.95-142.05mm).

Installation

Use new O-ring, seals, and gaskets when installing the cylinder head and its components.

  1. Be sure the cylinder head and the engine block surfaces are clean, level, and straight.
  2. Be sure the cylinder head dowel pins and oil control orifice are aligned. Clean the oil control orifice and reinstall it with a new O-ring.
  3. Install a new head gasket onto the engine block.
  4. Use new cylinder head bolts and washers. Used or previously-tightened bolts may be stretched; and therefore, they have reduced clamping and sealing power under compression. Apply clean engine oil to the threads of each head bolt.
  5. Fit the cylinder head into place. Hand-tighten all the cylinder head bolts.
  6. Tighten the cylinder head bolts to their final torque specification in two steps. Use a crisscross sequence starting with the bolts at the middle of the head and working toward the outer bolts. Step 1: Tighten each bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Step 2: Tighten each bolt to 61 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
  7. Install the dowel pin in the No. 3 cylinder head camshaft holder with a new O-ring.
  8. Thoroughly clean the intake and exhaust camshaft oil control orifices. Reinstall them with new O-rings.
  9. Install the camshafts.
  10. Install the intake manifold with a new gasket, and tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern in two or three steps to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) starting with the inner nuts.
  11. Install the bolts that secure the intake manifold to its bracket and tighten them to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  12. Install the power steering pump bracket and tighten its bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
  13. Install the exhaust manifold with a new gasket. Apply anti-seize paste to the studs, and tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm) in a crisscross sequence. Tighten the exhaust manifold bracket bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  14. Connect the exhaust manifold to the front exhaust pipe. Tighten the self-locking nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
  15. Verify that the engine is at TDC/compression for the No. 1 cylinder.
  16. Install the timing belt. After the timing belt has been properly tensioned, tighten the adjusting bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
  17. Install the lower timing belt cover. Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten its bolt to 130 ft. lbs. (180 Nm).
  18. Adjust the valves.
  19. Inspect the VTEC rocker arms for free and smooth motion.
  20. Remove the VTEC solenoid valve and its filter. Install a new filter, then reinstall the VTEC solenoid valve and tighten its bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  21. Install the distributor. The lugs on the distributor drive fit into the groove on the end of the intake camshaft. Don't fully-tighten the distributor mounting bolts yet.
  22. Be sure all the spark plug tube sealing gaskets are fully seated.
  23. Install a new gasket onto to the valve cover. Apply liquid gasket to the corners of the gasket that meet the camshaft holders. Don't let the sealant cure before installing the valve cover onto the cylinder head.
  24. Install the valve cover. Gently wiggle the valve cover to be sure it is fully seated. Tighten the valve cover bolts in a crisscross pattern to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
  25. Install new spark plugs.
  26. Reconnect the ignition wires.
  27. Reconnect the upper radiator hose, heater hoses, and intake manifold coolant bypass hoses.
  28. Reconnect the intake manifold vacuum lines, PCV, EVAP canister, and breather hoses.
  29. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel rail. Use new sealing washers on the banjo fitting. Carefully tighten the banjo fitting to 25 ft. lbs. (33 Nm). Tighten the service bolt to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
  30. Reconnect the throttle cable. Adjust its tension so the cable has a deflection of 0.39-0.47 in. (10-12mm)
  31. Installation of the remaining components is the reverse of removal.
  32. After the installation procedure is complete, check that all tubes, hoses, and connectors are installed correctly.

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What is the torque specs for head bolts?

Tighten each bolt to 12-15 foot pounds of torque.

How much torque is required for tightening the cylinder head?

Usually it is a two-step process; go through the pattern tightening the bolts to maybe 45 ft lbs and then going through the sequence again tightening them to their final torque of maybe 85 ft lbs.

Is it necessary to torque engine heads?

In most cases you don't need to retorque head bolts or studs. If the bolts or studs aren't tight you will lose compression or get coolant in your cylinders. You can use bolts or studs based on application, but studs tend to give more consistent torque values. Never reuse Torque-To-Yield (TTY) bolts.

What happens if cylinder head bolts not tight enough?

If the head isn't torqued down properly, then the most likely failure is of the head gasket, which could lead to loss of compression, the mixing of oil and coolant, exhaust gases getting into the oil ways or cooling channels, erosion of the cylinder head, overheating and warping of the cylinder head.