Jeep wj front upper control arm bushing

These are OEM style rubber upper control arm bushings. Chosen for their ride comfort, flexibility, and durability. These fit all years and are the compressed rubber style used in 1984 to 1996 model years. Much more durable than the molded style used in the 1997 or newer. These are the same bushings we use in our kits (and our own vehicles).

Fitment:

• Fixed and adjustable upper short control arms
• Fixed and adjustable upper long arms   

Price is per each bushing.

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Antigua and Barbuda, Aruba, Australia, Austria, Bahamas, Bahrain, Bangladesh, Barbados, Belgium, Belize, Bermuda, Bolivia, Brazil, Brunei Darussalam, Bulgaria, Cambodia, Canada, Cayman Islands, Chile, China, Colombia, Costa Rica, Croatia, Republic of, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Dominica, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Egypt, El Salvador, Estonia, Finland, France, French Guiana, Germany, Gibraltar, Greece, Grenada, Guadeloupe, Guatemala, Guernsey, Honduras, Hong Kong, Hungary, Iceland, Indonesia, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Jersey, Jordan, Korea, South, Kuwait, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Macau, Malaysia, Maldives, Malta, Martinique, Mexico, Monaco, Montserrat, Netherlands, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Oman, Pakistan, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Philippines, Poland, Portugal, Qatar, Reunion, Romania, Saint Kitts-Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Africa, Spain, Sri Lanka, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Trinidad and Tobago, Turks and Caicos Islands, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, United States, Vietnam

5.0 out of 5 stars Tips for getting it done.
Reviewed in the United States on February 22, 2016

A few tips for the people struggling to put these in. First, drill out around the old rubber trying not to damage the outer sleeve then remove the inner piece. Second, get a torch and heat up a junk flathead screwdriver and push through the rubber separating it from the outer sleeve. Third, use a 2 or 2.5 inch wire wheel to remove the rest of the junk rubber. The wire wheel cleans the outer shell up nice. Fourth, apply a thin coat of grease to the new bushing and push it in by hand, then use a piece of wood and hammer to seat it fully. I used an old piece of hardwood flooring. It might take a little doing to get the bolt lined up through the control arm but isn't really an issue.

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Top reviews from the United States

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Reviewed in the United States on November 6, 2013

So far this bushing is doing its job. The OEM bushing I had installed lasted for about 3 days out in Moab, UT. The rubber in the OEM bushing worked its way out of the shell. The additional stiffness of this poly bushing will hopefully eliminate this issue.

One issue with these is the fact that no outer steel shell is provided. Thankfully they make no secret about this at at the same time I'm not sure why they don't include one. In my case, and in most others I would guess, I couldn't get the original shell out of the axle without wrecking it. That meant that in addition to these bushings, I had to buy another set of OEM bushings just the use their shells. In addition, getting the rubber out of the OEM shells is no picnic. I wound up making an insert that fit just inside the original shell and pressing the rubber out. It worked well but without a lathe to make the bushing I'd have been drilling the rubber out which would have been a horrible mess and no fun to boot.

Once I had a clean undamaged shell installation was a breeze so providing the shell would make these bushing an easy 5 stars. Without them though I'm going to have to drop a star. Also, if these bushings fail prematurely I will update this review.

Reviewed in the United States on July 25, 2014

Tried using a ball joint press to remove the old one, but that didn't work so well. My suggestion is a propane torch, melt the crap out of it, remove the excess rubber in the casing with a 1" wire wheel on a drill (REMEMBER you have to reuse the old casing). Install with ball joint presss and use some dish soap as lube around the new bushing(soap will dry up)

Remember to check you caster before and after the install...I used a protractor with a built in level.. That is if your caster was set correctly before the install. These bushings have much less give, and may throw off your caster adjustment...no big deal if you have adjustable control arms or you can use the bottom control arm bolt with a cam lobe head on it which gives you small amount of caster adjustment.

Front end seems much tighter. Happy Jeeping

Reviewed in the United States on February 22, 2016

A few tips for the people struggling to put these in. First, drill out around the old rubber trying not to damage the outer sleeve then remove the inner piece. Second, get a torch and heat up a junk flathead screwdriver and push through the rubber separating it from the outer sleeve. Third, use a 2 or 2.5 inch wire wheel to remove the rest of the junk rubber. The wire wheel cleans the outer shell up nice. Fourth, apply a thin coat of grease to the new bushing and push it in by hand, then use a piece of wood and hammer to seat it fully. I used an old piece of hardwood flooring. It might take a little doing to get the bolt lined up through the control arm but isn't really an issue.

5.0 out of 5 stars Tips for getting it done.
By Fugitive V60 on February 22, 2016

A few tips for the people struggling to put these in. First, drill out around the old rubber trying not to damage the outer sleeve then remove the inner piece. Second, get a torch and heat up a junk flathead screwdriver and push through the rubber separating it from the outer sleeve. Third, use a 2 or 2.5 inch wire wheel to remove the rest of the junk rubber. The wire wheel cleans the outer shell up nice. Fourth, apply a thin coat of grease to the new bushing and push it in by hand, then use a piece of wood and hammer to seat it fully. I used an old piece of hardwood flooring. It might take a little doing to get the bolt lined up through the control arm but isn't really an issue.

Reviewed in the United States on July 13, 2021

take some time to pull out the old rubber but fit and work

Reviewed in the United States on May 1, 2022

The bushings are smaller then the original and are not compatible to my
Jeep WJ 2004 (dana 30)

Reviewed in the United States on July 5, 2016

I used these on a 95 Jeep Cherokee (XJ). Super easy to put in. I used a butane torch to burn the old one out, a course wire wheel on a drill to clean up what was left, greased the bushing, then tapped it in. I made things a little harder on myself by wanting to use a grade 8, 7/16th bolt, but I'm happy with how it came out.

Update 2/12/17 I've had these in for about 5,000 miles and a hand full of off road trips. This weekend it tore itself into pieces. It's also been working itself out since I put it in. I'm buying them 1 more time because I only need them to last for 1 more trip and maybe 1,000 miles before I change over to a Cavfab long arm 3 link that replaces this bushing with a JJ.

Reviewed in the United States on September 6, 2020

Burn the old rubbers out and clean the shell. Use soap for the install. EZ

Reviewed in the United States on February 22, 2013

After a long while of cutting out the old bushing I finally burned the out. was not exactly what i wanted to do but at the time was the best risk vs. benefit. After the old ones were out and the casing cooled, I had to freeze them and beat them in with a BFH to get them in the sleeve. In the end they work well and I have no current problems as long as you don't mind a simple project to last all night.

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