2022 honda pilot rear differential fluid change interval

Honda Pilot Maintenance Schedule (2006 - Present)

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Service is recommended at 8,000 to 10,000 kms

Replace Engine oil

Service is recommended at 8,000 to 10,000 kms

• Replace engine oil and filter.
• Service front and rear brakes.
• Rotate tires, inspect for wear and adjust pressure.
• Inspect parking brake adjustments.
• Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots.
• Inspect suspension components.
• Inspect drive-shaft boots.
• Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS).
• Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids and check for leaks.
• Inspect exhaust system.
• Inspect fuel lines and connections.

Service recommended every 8,000 to 19,000 kms

Tire rotation, inspect for wear and adjust pressure

Service recommended every 40,000 to 49,000 kms

Replace air cleaner element, replace dust and pollen filter. Inspect and adjust drive belt

Service recommended every 95,000 to 109,000 kms

Replace transmission fluid

Service recommended every 160,000 to 169,000 kms

Replace spark plugs. Inspect valve clearance

Service recommended every 175,000 to 184,000 kms

Replace engine coolant

 Service recommended first 15,000 to 24,000 and 50,000 kms

Replace VTM-4 rear differential ***4WD model only

Specific Maintenance: Honda Pilot

In addition to the maintenance messages shown in the odometer/trip meter display, having these specific services performed at the distance recommended is vital to keeping your Pilot in optimum operating condition.

Recommended km/yr Specific Additional Required Maintenance

• 12,000 km replace VTM-4 rear differential fluid and every 24,000 km thereafter if vehicle is regularly driven in mountainous areas at very low speeds, or if vehicle is frequently used to tow a trailer. *Use only Genuine Honda VTM-4 rear differential fluid
• Every 24,000 km replace air cleaner element if vehicle is regularly driven in dusty conditions.
• Every 24,000 km replace dust and pollen filter if vehicle is regularly driven in urban areas with high concentrations of emissions from industry and diesel-powered vehicles.
• 48,000 km replace automatic transmission fluid and every 48,000 km thereafter if vehicle is regularly driven in mountainous areas at very low speeds, or if vehicle is frequently used to tow a trailer. *Use only Genuine Honda ATF-Z1
• 100,000 km replace timing belt if vehicle is regularly driven in very low temperatures (under -29°C; -20°F), or towing a trailer.
• Every 256,000 km inspect idle speed
• Every 3 years replace brake fluid. *Use only Genuine Honda Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT 3
• Note: Check the following vehicle components as indicated in order to ensure your Pilot operates at peak performance.
• Check:
  • Engine oil and coolant level each fuel stop
  • Brake fluid level monthly
  • Automatic transmission fluid level monthly
  • Tire inflation and condition monthly
  • All lights monthly

Q: The owner’s manual of my 2004 Honda Pilot recommends regular changing of the “VTM-4” rear differential fluid, which costs more than $100 each time. Is frequent replacement really necessary since I seldom use the four-wheel-drive feature?

A: I checked the service schedules for your vehicle in my ALLDATA automotive database and was somewhat surprised to find the suggested rear differential fluid change interval under normal driving conditions is 15,000 miles. Under severe driving conditions, the interval is reduced to 7,500 miles.

In today’s world of nearly maintenance-free drivetrains, the frequent change interval is unusual. But there is a reason: the limited slip clutch pack in the differential. Honda Technical Service Bulletin #04-040, dated August 2008, identifies a potential “noise or judder” from the rear differential when turning due to clutch debris contamination in the fluid.

This isn’t an issue of four-wheel-drive use. The rear differential will always have a percentage of clutch slippage when turning, thus generating normal wear debris. The noise/judder can occur when the level of clutch debris in the fluid reaches the point of preventing the clutch from slipping smoothly. If this does occur, the Honda bulletin outlines a repeated drain/fill/drive procedure to remove the debris and eliminate the noise/judder.

Although I can’t recommend this, I suppose you could increase the fluid change interval to 30,000 miles. But, of course, if you begin to experience the judder while turning, it will cost at least twice as much to eliminate.

Q: Ever since I had my 2006 Jeep Liberty in for a diagnostic test I am unable to fill up my gas tank without having to trickle in the gas. The pump clicks off right away like the tank is full. There’s a lot of pressure released when I first take the cap off. I’m getting a “gas cap” message on my dash. What did they do to my car when the test was done? Is any of this related to the gas tank recall I just heard about?

A: No. The potential recall, which Chrysler is challenging, involves a concern over the plastic fuel tank’s vulnerability in a collision and is not related to an emission system issue.

Chrysler Technical Service Bulletin #14-001-09 REV. A, dated September 2009, outlines a fairly simple series of tests to pinpoint the cause for slow refueling. The potential causes include a blockage or restriction in the fuel filler tube, vapor recirculation tube, evaporative canister or control valve, evaporative system integrity monitor (ESIM), ESIM vent hose or filter, or a problem with the fuel tank itself.

I don’t see how a diagnostic test could cause this problem unless an evap system hose were left plugged or disconnected.

Q: I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with the 2.4-liter engine. It runs great above 2,000 rpm and in any gear other than at idle. At idle, cylinder No. 3 does not fire. It runs really rough and stalls the motor at times. When I step on the accelerator, it runs fine. It is great for highway use and runs really smooth at speed. Why just cylinder No. 3? The coil pack, plug wires and spark plugs are all new. A compression check showed it low at idle. I’m curious why it picks up when you step on the throttle.

A: Compression loss is a higher percentage of total cylinder pressure at idle speed. Slower piston speeds at idle can allow more compression loss than at higher engine speeds. Thus the cylinder builds compression until it reaches a level that supports combustion. You feel this as the engine “picking up” that cylinder and running smoothly at speed.

Try disabling the spark and fuel to the No. 3 cylinder, installing a compression gauge in the spark plug hole and start the engine. I think you’ll find that “running” compression at 2,000 rpm is measurably higher than compression at idle.

Is there a fix? A valve job might correct a leaky intake or exhaust valve but won’t solve a cylinder/piston/ring issue.

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